Dahlia & Lance's Travels

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Week 5, 9-16 June 2007 - Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks

We left West Glacier, MT (Glacier National Park) on Saturday, 9 June, and headed south west, from the Rocky Mountains and across the Great Plains toward our next stop over at Great Falls, MT. They call it “Big Sky Country” and you can see why with wide open spaces. At Great Falls we visited a Lewis and Clark Interpretative Center overlooking the Great Falls of the Missouri River, a place where Lewis and Clark spent three weeks portaging their boats and equipment around the falls. The Center was very interesting, but dams have been put around the falls so they are not as impressive as they once were From here we headed south along the Missouri River for a while on the Lewis and Clark Trail (I-15) and back into the Rocky Mountains to finally ended in West Yellowstone, MT late Sunday afternoon (Grizzly RV Park).


After watching an IMAX movie about the park to learn about the history and geology of Yellowstone and visiting the Grizzly and Wolf “Experience” in town, we decided to go and see the real thing. Yellowstone is by far the most fascinating and magical place we have ever experienced. It sounds bombastic, but words and photos just can’t do it justice. There are huge areas of dramatic geothermal activity, boiling springs, thousands of geysers, steam vents, fumaroles, churning bubbling mud pots, steaming fields, and hot lakes. In some lakes the acidity approaches that of car batteries. There are turquoise, white and red hot steaming pools teeming with life of microorganisms that thrive on sulfur, minerals and heat. Walking on the boardwalks installed around these geothermal basins, we were frequently engulfed in thick, sometimes acidic and chocking, sulfuric fog and steam. You hear the vigorous hissing of steam vents, and the rumbling of boiling gases just below. There are areas where thousands of trees died because they could not tolerate the boiling ground, and concentration of acids and salts. When you touch the wet ground right next to the boardwalk, it is really quite warm, and unstable. You are really up close and personal with the violence just under the surface, where hot magma is churning and moving. You realize that there is only a thin crust separating you from what’s below. One of the most incredible places we saw was “Mammoth Hot Springs” where you see multi-colored terraces that looked at times like frozen waterfalls, snow avalanches, or cascades of molten white and gold colored marshmallows, with soft steam above them. What a sight!!! They were created over millennia by deposits left by now extinct hot springs. Then there is the incredible Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, with its gorgeous falls, Yellowstone Lake, and of course, Old Faithful Geyser. All that, in one park, which is only roughly 250 square miles.

As if that is not enough to take your breath away, right beside this turmoil, there are also miles and miles of rushing rivers, streams, lush green meadows, lakes, rapids and scores of waterfalls. Large herds of Bison (Buffalo) roam the park and frequently wonder onto the road, seemingly oblivious to cars, creating huge traffic snarls. On a narrow road with no shoulder, we passed so close to one of them, probably startling him, that he was ready to charge the RV. (We quickly closed the window and took off—forget the picture!) We did get many close-ups of buffalo later. The most magical time of day was late afternoon when the animals come out of the woods to feed in the meadows and along the rivers. Driving slowly along the roads, we saw large herds of buffalos feeding in the meadows, flocks of geese, flying in formation and swimming with their chicks in tow. There were deer and countless elk, crossing the highway, or grazing in the meadows, some with impressive racks of antlers. In the distance we saw several bears, including a sow with her two cubs. (The binoculars really came in handy!) . At many places there were groups of wildlife lovers ready with spotting scopes setting up to scan the horizon for animals in those evening hours. We saw a bald eagle and its nest with a couple of baby chicks waiting for mom to bring food, several coyotes, including a couple of pups in their den. It is hard to imagine that there is still a place in the US where wildlife is still so abundant and free. It was a real paradise and like being on safari. We hated for the days to end and the sun to set.

Having seen Yellowstone now, we feel if there is one place on earth one should not miss seeing, it is this incredible park. Seeing it now for the second time, and 30 years later it seems even more incredible.

Thursday night we stayed at the south end of the park and in the morning headed south to Grand Tetons National Park, which is right next to Yellowstone. The distinct sharp snow capped peaks of the Tetons reflected in Jackson Lake were a beautiful sight. We saw large herds of buffalo and elk in the distance, had lunch at the beautiful Jackson Lodge with gorgeous panoramic views of the Tetons and took a nice hike at Jenny Lake to Hidden Falls. Arrived at Jackson Hole, WY in the early evening.

We apologize for including so many pictures of Yellowstone; we hope they don’t get boring. We should be home in a week and update the blog then.
Map of Our Travels for the Last Week - A = Glacier NP, B = Great Falls, MT, C = West Yellowstone, MT, D = Jackson, WY

Pictures from Grand Teton National Park




Pictures from Yellowstone National Park

Red Algae in "Grand Prismatic Spring" at Midway Geyser Basin in Yellowstone


"Excelsior Geyser" Crater at Midway Geyser Basin


Geyser at Firehole Lake Drive in Yellowstone

Coyote Near Road in Yellowstone

Bald Eagle
Family of Canada Geese
"Old Faithful" Geyser Erupting as Hundreds of Tourists Watch


Geyser at Upper Geyser Basin at Yellowstone


Deep Blue Pool of Steaming Water

Friday, June 15, 2007

Fly Fishing in Yellowstone


Traffic Jam in Yellowstone, Bison Definitely have the Right-A-Way


Bull Elk in Yellowstone

Deer and Fawn Near Road in Yellowstone


Us in Front of the Lower Yellowstone River Falls (308 ft)


Another Picture of Lower Yellowstone Falls

Grizzly Bear in Yellowstone


Ground Squirrel Looking for Handout


Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River

Bull Elk in Yellowstone

Bison Bull in Yellowstone

Elk Looking Our RV While Crossing the Road in Yellowstone
Dahlia in Front of "Liberty Cap" in Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone. This an extinct hot spring cone.

Herd of Elk on Lawn of National Park Offices at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone

"Devil's Thumb" and Travertine Formation at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone


Travertine Formations at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone


Another Geyser in Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone


Bubbling Mud in Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone

Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone


Geyser in Norris Geyser Basin in Yellowstone


Coyote Pups in Den in Yellowstone

Bison in Yellowstone National Park

Gibon Falls (84 ft) in Yellowstone

Bison in Yellowstone National Park

Pictures on Way from Glacier to Yellowstone National Parks

Big Red Bus at Glacier National Park


Montana Big Sky County in Great Plains Between West Glacier and Great Falls


Great Falls of the Missouri River (not so great any more) at Great Falls, MT

Saturday, June 09, 2007

Motor Home Trip to Jasper National Park Canada – Week 4, 3-8 June 2007

We spent another day at beautiful Lake Louise taking a long hike around the lake along with swarms of Japanese tourists, luckily the crowds thinned as we got further away from the hotel. We then drove on to Banff which is a short drive away. Banff town is a cute little town with elk running through the streets. We spent the first day browsing the town and the shops, had dinner out a couple of nights and went to the Banff Hot Springs to take the waters (felt like a Jacuzzi that smelled like sulfur). On our second day we took a bike ride around Vermillion lakes, just out of town. It was like riding along giant mirrors reflecting the spectacular mountain scenery. We took advantage of the nice weather and went for a two hour hike through nearby Johnson Canyon. It is a steep narrow canyon where the path includes many catwalks suspended from the canyon walls along a rushing river with rapids and beautiful waterfalls through primal forests and moss covered rocks. It was a real highlight. On our way back to Banff, we saw a huge grizzly bear bounding across the highway at lightening speed, right in front of us and disappeared off into the woods before we had a chance to grab a camera. It was fantastic to see this huge animal moving so fast. Before leaving Banff we stopped to see the Whyte museum which was mildly interesting.

On Monday (4 June) we left Banff and headed south toward the USA along scenic highway 93, passing Radium hot springs, where we saw a herd of scruffy looking mountain goats and stopped for the night at Fairmont Hot Springs, BC. As we were driving we were listening to the final chapters of “Truman” which kept us company for the last 3 weeks. We hated for the book to end. It was a wonderful way to get to know a bit more about the man Truman was. The next day stopped at the quaint, restored frontier town of Fort Steel and learned a bit about the history of the region, before passing through Customs and arriving at West Glacier, MT a couple of miles from the entrance of Glacier National Park. It was the first time that we got a glimpse at the “Luxuriant Bear Grass”. We had to stop to take a close look at these gorgeous large white flowers which we have never seen before. They are growing in great abundance along the roads and seem to be unique to this area. (First reported by Lewis and Clark). After three weeks of almost perfect weather, a cold front moved through and we got some rain and cooler temperatures. The timing was good as we were both really ready for a break from touring and scenery. It was great to have a down day, reading, surfing the web (we had Wi-Fi at the campground) and watching a DVD. It’s sure nice to have your house along for the ride.

On Friday (8 June), refreshed, we were ready to tour Glacier National Park. The weather improved a bit but was still overcast and cold. We found that there had been serious storm damage to the Park over the last few years, from road wash outs to forest fires. Despite this, we were able to see some wonderful scenery. We took a short walk near Lake McDonald on a boardwalk through mature forest along a lovely rushing river. (It is still a real thrill to me (Dahlia) to see such old trees, so much water, so many large rushing rivers waterfalls and lakes.) On the drive along US2 we spotted another herd of mountain goats roaming along remote cliffs at Goatlick point. (We had to use the binoculars to distinguish them from rocks J)

The road then crossed the Continental Divide to the east side of the Park, at Marias pass, where the Rocky Mountains gives way to the Great Plains. Here the rivers really switched direction and flow to the east!!! (I’m still trying to get my head around this one… D.)
It is here that you really get a sense of what “big sky” really means. The transition from mountains glaciers and dense forests to the plains was sharp and very striking. Along with the change of scenery there was an abrupt change in weather as well. The gloomy cloud cover was gone and a beautiful blue sky with puffy clouds made the day look so much brighter. We saw a big herd of bison grazing in a huge meadow; the trees gave way to endless grassy meadows. We passed through the Blackfoot Indian Reservation and visited the Plains Indian Museum, which was enlightening.

It’s been 4 weeks since we left home, and 2.5 weeks to go with many exciting parks ahead.

Travels Druing Week 4 - A = Lake Louise, AB, B = Banff, AB, C = Fairmont Hot Springs, BC, D = West Glacier, MT


Scenes on the East Side of Glacier NP where the Great Plains Meet the Rocky Mountains


River in Glacier NP and Bision Near East Side of Glacier NP


Trail of the Ceders in Glacier National Park

Fort Steele, BC and Luxuriant Beargrass (discovered by Lewis & Clark) near Glacier National Park, MT