Menaggio - 14 May
It is a misty and gloomy day in Menaggio. A good day to be lazy and read a book, and catch up on our diary. The condo we are staying in is quite spacious, with a full view of the lake below from the balcony the living room and the bedroom. Varena is across the lake and beyond we can see the Alps with some traces of snow topping them. It is sooo peaceful and lovely .We cannot believe how fortunate we are to have this opportunity to hang out here leisurely and have time to tour and be lazy, and just absorb the atmosphere. The prices here are quite high, but much less so than in Venice.
Friday morning, May 7th we said good bye to Ivan our B&B host in Dubrovnik and headed back to Split to catch the overnight Adriatica car ferry to Ancona Italy. The cabin on the boat was one step up from what we imagine a prison cell looks like, skimpy, hard bunk beds. However, we were able to take showers before our arrival on a sunny day in Ancona.
On the way north we stopped in the lovely beach town of Rimini. The wide sandy beaches were almost empty, but there were clear signs that summer is almost here, and workers were busily readying the umbrella anchors for the coming season. Colorful Cabanas were set up and several sun worshippers were stretched out on lawn chairs absorbing the warm sun. We had a wonderful Cappuccino with a heavenly pastry and soaked a gentle sun for a long while. It was so tempting to stay here and take a nap since we barely slept the night before.
However we decided to press on to Bologna, to get closer to our final destination of Mennagio. The roads were great with beautiful trees covered with dense white blossoms and green fields scattered with tons of yellow dandelions.The encounter with Bologna was less friendly than we expected we got caught on the inside, express lane on the Autostrada and were able to get off only on the exit from town. Once in town all the streets were one way, the wrong way or narrow cobblestone alleys closed to traffic and parking spaces non-existent. Finally, frazzled, we headed out of the center to the train station where we found a nice hotel (Excelsior) with parking. What a HUGE relief to leave the car!!! Without the car, Bologna became much more pleasant. Most buildings are old with wonderful patina of age, and with welcoming Porticos in front. The center had a lovely square with several churches and impressive old palaces with statues and fountains. The streets were filled with shoppers and strollers out for a weekend. We had a refreshing Sprizze (A great new drink we found while in Venice, sparkling wine, soda and Campari bitter or Aperol added in, sort of a modified Sprizzer) and a wonderful dinner of Mushroom filled Raviolis. walk.What spoiled the fun were the motor scooters zooming by and the cars. After Venice and the walled towns that were closed to traffic mostly, the traffic was somewhat jarring.
On to Verona in the morning. Along the way we saw scattered medieval castles and hilltop churches surrounded by cute towns, and lots of red poppies along the road. We arrived at our B&B (Casa de Merlino) on the outskirts of Verona in the afternoon. It was a converted ancient farmhouse with an original stone cellar that was beautifully remodeled, leaving some of the old stone walls exposed. The room was cute but not particularly comfortable. The black cat was not too happy to be chased from his bed when he arrived. The other yellow cat was playing with a doll on the floor of the hallway making funny noises. The hosts were a cute young couple, Alexia and Paulo.
The town of Verona was a short drive away. We parked the car and walked into the old town, which is blocked, to traffic. It was a wonderful evening. The old Roman Arena is very impressive and reminiscent of the one in Cesaria. There were props being readied for the upcoming performance of Aida in the summer. It would be a real thrill to watch an opera like this performed in this setting.. We may come back here later in the trip. The town was delightful with lovely squares, great shops and impressive ancient ruins, 17th century homes with frescoes still visible on their front balconies. We saw the house that supposedly inspired Romeo and Juliet story which was very tacky, covered with love noted stuck to the walls with gum and a bronze statue of Juliet's with a shiny breast from being endlessly rubbed by people for good luck. Lance and I figured it couldn't hurt and did the same
From Verona we headed to Lake Como which was about three hours drive away. Once we reached the lake the drive became quite hair raising. The "Highway" has 2 very narrow lanes and no shoulder and hugs the steep cliffs over the lake. There are spectacular views of the Alps in the north and the quaint villages along the lake. A few miles short of Mennagio we stopped for lunch when we spotted a sign for parking. There was a steep stairway leading to the waterfront with an adorable restaurant right on the water. Across the water there was a tiny Island, It was almost empty except for two Italian gentlemen, chatting in their musical Italian, surrounded by shady pine trees, there were ducks and swans in the water, and a mother duck with a bunch of ducklings trailing behind. There were a few sail boats tied to shore and rocking in the breeze..Around the restaurant were a few residential old buildings, with flowering pots on the windowsills and balconies, old quaint doors and windows, skinny stairways for streets. What a delightful place!!!! It was hard to leave.
We finally arrived in Mennagio, which is a really lovely town, built along the shore and up the steep hills.The condo we are staying in can be reached in 10 minutes or so by foot from the boat docks by a long path and a steep stairway. It is nice to leave the car in the garage and just walk. The first day we explored the town by taking a walking tour all around it, we it was a really pleasant walk. The views are wonderful everywhere, the roads inside the town are mostly narrow cobblestone alleys, very quaint. It is always hard to believe when we see cars actually driving in them though.
On Thursday, our first sunny day here we took the boat to Bellagio across the lake and explored it and it's outskirts in a lovely walk. Lance, always the tour guide is able to follow the cryptic maps and find his way easily. Who needs tour guides when we have him? We walked through the beautiful gardens of Villa Melzi where azeleas were in bloom in every possible color.
Spring is really a wonderful time to be here! There are Tulips, Red Geraniums, Azeleas and pansies in full blooms everywhere Flowerin trees with thick white blossoms, Clumps of beautiful Wisteria in white and Blue on Thick heavy vines and the wild flowers are celebrating the warm weather as well. I love the red poppies in the green fields most of all. They really make your heart sing.
Friday morning, May 7th we said good bye to Ivan our B&B host in Dubrovnik and headed back to Split to catch the overnight Adriatica car ferry to Ancona Italy. The cabin on the boat was one step up from what we imagine a prison cell looks like, skimpy, hard bunk beds. However, we were able to take showers before our arrival on a sunny day in Ancona.
On the way north we stopped in the lovely beach town of Rimini. The wide sandy beaches were almost empty, but there were clear signs that summer is almost here, and workers were busily readying the umbrella anchors for the coming season. Colorful Cabanas were set up and several sun worshippers were stretched out on lawn chairs absorbing the warm sun. We had a wonderful Cappuccino with a heavenly pastry and soaked a gentle sun for a long while. It was so tempting to stay here and take a nap since we barely slept the night before.
However we decided to press on to Bologna, to get closer to our final destination of Mennagio. The roads were great with beautiful trees covered with dense white blossoms and green fields scattered with tons of yellow dandelions.The encounter with Bologna was less friendly than we expected we got caught on the inside, express lane on the Autostrada and were able to get off only on the exit from town. Once in town all the streets were one way, the wrong way or narrow cobblestone alleys closed to traffic and parking spaces non-existent. Finally, frazzled, we headed out of the center to the train station where we found a nice hotel (Excelsior) with parking. What a HUGE relief to leave the car!!! Without the car, Bologna became much more pleasant. Most buildings are old with wonderful patina of age, and with welcoming Porticos in front. The center had a lovely square with several churches and impressive old palaces with statues and fountains. The streets were filled with shoppers and strollers out for a weekend. We had a refreshing Sprizze (A great new drink we found while in Venice, sparkling wine, soda and Campari bitter or Aperol added in, sort of a modified Sprizzer) and a wonderful dinner of Mushroom filled Raviolis. walk.What spoiled the fun were the motor scooters zooming by and the cars. After Venice and the walled towns that were closed to traffic mostly, the traffic was somewhat jarring.
On to Verona in the morning. Along the way we saw scattered medieval castles and hilltop churches surrounded by cute towns, and lots of red poppies along the road. We arrived at our B&B (Casa de Merlino) on the outskirts of Verona in the afternoon. It was a converted ancient farmhouse with an original stone cellar that was beautifully remodeled, leaving some of the old stone walls exposed. The room was cute but not particularly comfortable. The black cat was not too happy to be chased from his bed when he arrived. The other yellow cat was playing with a doll on the floor of the hallway making funny noises. The hosts were a cute young couple, Alexia and Paulo.
The town of Verona was a short drive away. We parked the car and walked into the old town, which is blocked, to traffic. It was a wonderful evening. The old Roman Arena is very impressive and reminiscent of the one in Cesaria. There were props being readied for the upcoming performance of Aida in the summer. It would be a real thrill to watch an opera like this performed in this setting.. We may come back here later in the trip. The town was delightful with lovely squares, great shops and impressive ancient ruins, 17th century homes with frescoes still visible on their front balconies. We saw the house that supposedly inspired Romeo and Juliet story which was very tacky, covered with love noted stuck to the walls with gum and a bronze statue of Juliet's with a shiny breast from being endlessly rubbed by people for good luck. Lance and I figured it couldn't hurt and did the same
From Verona we headed to Lake Como which was about three hours drive away. Once we reached the lake the drive became quite hair raising. The "Highway" has 2 very narrow lanes and no shoulder and hugs the steep cliffs over the lake. There are spectacular views of the Alps in the north and the quaint villages along the lake. A few miles short of Mennagio we stopped for lunch when we spotted a sign for parking. There was a steep stairway leading to the waterfront with an adorable restaurant right on the water. Across the water there was a tiny Island, It was almost empty except for two Italian gentlemen, chatting in their musical Italian, surrounded by shady pine trees, there were ducks and swans in the water, and a mother duck with a bunch of ducklings trailing behind. There were a few sail boats tied to shore and rocking in the breeze..Around the restaurant were a few residential old buildings, with flowering pots on the windowsills and balconies, old quaint doors and windows, skinny stairways for streets. What a delightful place!!!! It was hard to leave.
We finally arrived in Mennagio, which is a really lovely town, built along the shore and up the steep hills.The condo we are staying in can be reached in 10 minutes or so by foot from the boat docks by a long path and a steep stairway. It is nice to leave the car in the garage and just walk. The first day we explored the town by taking a walking tour all around it, we it was a really pleasant walk. The views are wonderful everywhere, the roads inside the town are mostly narrow cobblestone alleys, very quaint. It is always hard to believe when we see cars actually driving in them though.
On Thursday, our first sunny day here we took the boat to Bellagio across the lake and explored it and it's outskirts in a lovely walk. Lance, always the tour guide is able to follow the cryptic maps and find his way easily. Who needs tour guides when we have him? We walked through the beautiful gardens of Villa Melzi where azeleas were in bloom in every possible color.
Spring is really a wonderful time to be here! There are Tulips, Red Geraniums, Azeleas and pansies in full blooms everywhere Flowerin trees with thick white blossoms, Clumps of beautiful Wisteria in white and Blue on Thick heavy vines and the wild flowers are celebrating the warm weather as well. I love the red poppies in the green fields most of all. They really make your heart sing.
posted by Dahlia and Lance Riley @ 7:34 AM
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